Hold the hardboard steady and lightly trace along the edge to get your curve.Ġ3 Tack two more nails into the assembly table at the 2 " marks along the edge of both ends and place your hardboard against them. Then, measure down from the top edge along the centerline and mark the same measurement.Ġ2 Drive finish nails into your assembly table at each end at the bottom corners of your stock, place your piece of hardboard against those nails and push up along the centerline until the edge of your hardboard touches your mark at the centerline (you may have to push and bend the nails to make sure your hardboard edge intersects the bottom corners properly). This illustration uses the curved legs from the daytripper chair as an example, but you can use the concepts for any of the projects featured in this section.Ġ1 After cutting your raw stock to length, measure up from the bottom edge on both ends and mark the width of the piece (2 " in this example). The following technique is one of the easiest and requires only that you know the pieces final length and width, as well as a piece of hardboard or other pliable material that can easily be pushed or pulled to create a consistent curved line. Thenĭisassemble, sand smooth, and reassemble withĦGET MORE PROJECT PLANS AT LAYING OUT CURVESĠ0 When you need to lay out curved lines, there are many different methods you may use. If you choose this method, do an initialĪssembly without glue to make sure all pilot holesĪnd edges line up and appear to your liking. TIP: This is one of those projects that may be more easily sanded and finished without all the piecesĬonnected. Again, use " spacers and keep slats square to the legs.ĥGET MORE PROJECT PLANS AT 06 Sand all edges and surfaces smooth, apply a waterproofing finish according to manufacturer directions, interlock the two components and relax! Make sure all slats are evenly spaced and square to the legs.Ġ5 Attach the remaining six slats (E) to the seat legs (B), beginning with the front slat flush to front edges of the legs. Use " spacers to continue attaching 5 more slats (E). You may have to use a framing square to make sure the supports are square on the legs.Ġ4 Start attaching slats by beginning with the top slat (C) flush with the top edges of the back legs (A). Connect the outside edges of those two holes with a straightedge and cut those lines with a jig saw to create a hand-grip hole.Ġ3 Begin assembly by attaching the seat supports (D) to the back legs (A) according to the dimensions in the illustration. On your top slat (C), mark two points 9" in from each end and centered 1 " from the top and bottom edges, drill two 1" diameter holes at those points. This will ensure consistent pieces and youll have the pattern for later use if you decide to build more chairs.Ġ2 Cut the top slat (C), seat supports (D) and slats (E) to dimensions on the cut list. You may find it easier to first lay out the curves on a piece of hardboard and make a pattern. To round the corners of your legs, lay a 25-cent piece in each corner and trace it to achieve what amounts to a " radius. (2) 2 x 6 x 8'(2) 1 x 6 x 8'1/8" x 24" x 48" hardboard for templates2" deck screwsWaterproof wood glueĪ (2) 1 x 5 x 36"B (2) 1 x 5 x 34"C (1) x 3 x 23"D (2) x 2 x 23"E (11) x 2 x 23"ĤGET MORE PROJECT PLANS AT BUILDING STEPSĠ1 Cut your 2 x stock to length for the back legs (A) and seat legs (B), then lay out the curves according to the dimensions on the illustration detail (see special instructions for laying out curves). Miter saw or circular sawTable sawDrill/driver1/8" drill bitJig sawDamp rag to wipe up excess glue Or keep a couple on hand in storage for when you need extra outdoor seating. You can break it down and easily carry it to the beach or a little league game. When set up, the chair is sturdy, comfortable, and bears a simple elegance. This chair is made up of two interlocking pieces that can be taken apart for easy storage or transport. Cutting parts: 2 3 hoursAssembly: 2 hours Finishing: 2 hoursTotal: 6 7 hours
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